How Do You Solve A Problem Like The Middle East?
Having been in Istanbul for the best part of three weeks now, having acquainted myself with its culture and traditions, and having met a vast quantity of people from this region, the problems facing the Middle East are explicitly clear to see throughout all structures of society. Given her recent transgressions Turkey is most certainly within the MENA region now, despite its clear European architectural influences and its ‘Mediterranean way of life’. Rather than just rattle off information from Al Jazeera or the BBC I’m aiming for the more personal touch. There are three young males here, all with differing backgrounds from across The Middle East. Of course they shall remain nameless, but I hope to show some of their brief stories from our communications in admittedly broken English.
Person A – an Iranian handyman and engineer. Despite the best efforts from the girls at the hostel, his English is very fractured (partly due to his stubbornness to improve his quality of English). Our first conversation we had was about his background and why he left Iran. `I love my country’, he said, ‘but I hate my government. It is rubbish if you are not religious`. Being awoken by the Call to Prayer here at roughly 04:50 every morning, and having spent a week of my life in Saudi Arabia, I feel like I’ve seen both ends of the religious spectrum. Turkey is not an Islamic country, there may be political policies forcing that shift, but there still remains a conflict of interests for the people of Istanbul. So clearly, religion is an issue for Person A. His second complaint actually focused on guests, `everybody here thinks I am Arab, but I am not, I am Persian`. There is an issue with identity throughout the region and historically this mistake has induced tension and conflict, and obviously he takes great offence from being falsely labelled as an Arab. Given the recent rapprochement between Iran and United States there is renewed hope for a reduction in international tension, maybe not regional, but having known this person for three weeks now his complaints have rarely been directed at the West but rather the inner turmoil within the country that he loves.
Person B – a young Syrian political activist who actually was the first person to greet me upon my arrival in Istanbul. He came to Istanbul from Syria two years ago, fleeing the country having angered the Assad regime for his political writings. He continues to write on the Middle East, but now anonymously, distributing his work to various Gulf media outlets. The reason for anonymity is to protect his family who remained in the war-torn country. My first night here while exchanging pleasant small talk, and having revealed the degree I’m studying, he dropped this accurate one-liner; `yeah, Syria is a little bit fucked`. Refreshingly honest, he didn’t hide away from the truth, he didn’t paint a pretty picture for its current situation or what conditions may be in the future. He doesn’t believe that the Islamist ideology of IS will ever be defeated, unfortunately I’m very much inclined to agree despite my positive disposition and optimism for the region. One of the issues with combating IS and their Islamist ideology appears to be that it’s not at the forefront of any country’s (or rather any primary actors’) foreign policy. The United States has been focused on securing the nuclear program deal with Iran, the United Kingdom’s primary focus is domestic and reducing numbers leaving to join IS, Saudi’s main concern is Yemen (and opposing the US-Iran deal) while Turkey’s recent aerial attacks on IS forces have extremely questionable motives. Although my friend fears for the future of his country, his positive outlook on life and his enthusiasm for socializing are genuinely refreshing considering the strife and turmoil he has left behind.
Person C – a man a few years older than myself (I dare not ask his actual age, how terribly un-British of me that would be) who has just finished his compulsory military service in the Turkish Armed Forces. What we would call in Britain a `cynical lefty`, he is adamant that democracy has failed and that the Middle East is not a region with the potential to change. Dubbed by the BBC as the most important week in contemporary Turkish history (what a time to be in Istanbul), Turkey has firmly established itself as a chief actor in fighting IS. Great, on paper. The feeling within Turkey and among its people is rather more ominous. In the recent election Erdogan didn’t achieve the overall majority he aspired for, and with growing support for the PKK and left and centre-left parties, the AKP party had to act with swagger and power to claw back lost voters ahead of forthcoming elections. His government’s actions over the past week have angered the masses, forcing them onto the streets of Istanbul to protest against water cannons, tear gas and riot police. When asked ‘what’s wrong with Turkey?’, his response was simply ‘everything, Erdogan wants to recreate the Ottoman Empire, destroy the Kurds and make our country an Islamic one’. Although this is an extremely pessimistic approach, it is shared by the majority of young Turkish people I have spoken to. The dubious nature of their involvement in Syria has been heavily commented on in the past week, there is clearly an ulterior motive concerning the potential of an independent Kurdish state along Turkey’s southern border, and this has left the country fractured and facing social and identity issues systematic of the MENA region. What was most disturbing however was what I witnessed yesterday. On Sunday, as we were walking from Tophane to Kabatas (two districts within Istanbul) we uncovered these beautifully decorated steps from the Pride celebrations last month. Tourists and locals alike were stopping to take photographs of this artwork, it transcended a political and social movement. Yesterday, when completing the same walk and hoping to capture photos of our own, we discovered that these steps were in the midst of being destroyed by the local council. Having spoken to people here during the Pride celebrations, what was a peaceful, um, celebration descended into riot police throwing tear gas and firing rubber bullets. Draw from this what you will, but it sure ain’t open or tolerant, and the destruction of the steps was quite frankly shocking.
This deliberately isn’t a profound piece, I’m not really offering any major insights here, rather I’m just commenting on the views expressed by others exposed to the harsh realities of the Middle East, something I believe we in the West find hard to grasp or fathom. There is a different culture here, a different way of living, clearly we can’t impose our Western, liberal democratic values on the region, it won’t work. The turbulence of the Middle East will not be remedied overnight, nor in the next year or maybe even five years. But what I think is crucial, and completely and utterly necessary, is that we strive to have a greater understanding of the hardships of our fellow man irrespective of religion or identity.